After taking the measurements, we pick a suitable last with the wanted heel height. For new readers I'd like to point out that the last is the most important aspect when making shoes: it defines the size, shape and even structural elements of what will eventually become a shoe. I will demonstrate some phases in which the lasts are reshaped to fit the clients measures. After all they're bespoke, which means they're made to measure :)
The lasts I ordered from the factory are like they're traditionally made: they're made of beech, which is a very hard, dense and stable wood. Ideal for lasts!
Let's take a look:
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Here's what we'll start with: The last with some markings, a pen, some files for shaping and lots of courage :D Really, They look so fine already, so it's somewhat terrifying to start reshaping them. But it's gotta be done. |
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We can't forget the foot shape drawing and the measurements, now can we? |
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The drawing serves as a good base for defining shapes. This way we'll get an approximate on how the toes will fit etc. |
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The original was very chesty, as you can see on the left. The right one has it's shapes redone. |
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The inner arch got some new, more anatomical shapes. |
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And of course you'll have to shape 'em both. Here they are, ready to be modeled into patterns. |
Kenkiä tehtäessä tärkein valmistuksen elementti on lestit. Lesti määrää koko kengän muodon, sopivuuden sekä toiminnallisuuden. Aloitankin pyökkilesteillä, joissa on sovittu n. 7,5cm koronkorkeus. Lestit itsessään ovat jo niin upeat että niiden muokkaaminen pelottaa, mutta ne ovat niin rintavat että kaipaavat aika rankkaa muotoilua. Kyseessähän on kuitenkin mittatilaussaappaat. Urheasti taistoon!
hei. sinulla on kyllä kiva blogi. blogissani on tunnustus sinulle.
ReplyDeleteKiitos Unikuu :) Ei itselläsikään ole hassumpi.
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