Monday, November 19

Hi, Yo, Silver away!

And we're back to business with a pair of bespoke ladies heels in the vein of a western styled low cut walking shoes.


I think pictures talk more than me, so:
To begin the process of lasting, it's good to use talcum so that the lasts are easier removed afterwards.

The first front pull. Here you can see clearly the effects pattern making has to your lasting. I have to get that whole upper down to wrap around the last evenly. Thanks.

Bottom view after the first pull. You might be wondering what the hell is that white canvasy thingy over there? It's for handsewing the uppers. We'll get back to that later on.

Pulling the leather with specially made tools for the purpose. Lasting pincers.

After some while, I shape a sharp corner to the heel seat. This makes later phases easier and helps to create a neat look.

Before and after hot ironing.

The toe stiffener is glued on.

I use a shoemaker's rasp to accent and smoothen the shapes of the stiffener.

While still a bit moist, I use my hammer's shaft to compress the fibres and to accent the shapes of the stiffener.

The handsewn welt construct requires specially prepared thread. And you guessed it: one has to make it themselves :)
There's shoemaker's tar-wax that works as an sealant/binding agent for the threads and stearine wax to be used as a lubricant.

I won't go into detail in making the thread, but you use your whole arm to determine and separate the layers of thread. My master taught me to make a thread with 8 strands for the inseam.

Here's the reason one can't buy this thread: the strands have to be separately thinned from the ends so the final thread looks like this. This way it'll move easily through holes made in thick leather. 

And here's both rolls ready for sewing.

Next up, the handsewn welt.