Saturday, February 4

Making High Heel Boots - Part 7 Closing

I've recently learned that "closing", in shoe manufacturing terms, means in fact sewing. Or to be more precise; many different phases in which all of the pieces of leather are prepared and put together (and sewn). The result is a neat package, ready to be lasted, and they're called the uppers. So closing means 'the making of the uppers', a phase which comes after clicking, a process which we looked at on my last post.

This week, I've had the fortune to spend a lot more time on making those bespoke high heels for Niina. And now it's time to continue the venture:

First up: a lot of skiving.

A closeup on the reason of skiving. Usually a skiving thread is hidden inside. This keeps the folding strong and  stretchless (is that a word? :). This is from the collar.

After folding, I added an reinforcing cloth for added stiffness.

The sewing came out pretty nice. I used size 90/14 needle and size 60/3 thread. The stitch is about 1,1mm long.

A close up on the lining. I was pretty pleased with these :)

The linings upside down and right way down.

Left shoe upper almost done.

A peek at the backside.

A second row of stitching attaches the lining to the upper. This proved to be quite difficult, as you'll see from the picture  below. I wasn't too pleased with the results. And to make things more difficult, with leather you'll get no second chances: if you stitch wrong it'll stay ruined forever. One can take out the falsely sewn thread, but the needle markings are left for everyone to see.
The boot had to be handled forcefully to get some close-to-decent results.

I didn't find a size 60 thread with a proper color, so I reluctantly used size 40.
I could do better with the sewing, too.

The collar down. It's ok.
There's a patent leather detail on the top.

Just waiting for lasting!

8 comments:

  1. wow.mä niin odotan valmiita pareja. hirmu mielenkiintoinen toi kuva missä päälliset on koneessa kiinni. ei varmastikaan helppoo ommella.

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    1. Kiitos muikille :) Ompelu ei todellakaan ollut mitään iisiä, ja jälkikin oli sen näköinen. Ei mikään hylätyn arvoinen, mutta ei mikään loisteliaskaan. Mutta oppia ikä kaikki.

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  2. Nice! Very Nice! By the way, se on juurikin noin tuon lankapuolen kanssa täällä suomessa. Ei tahdo saada 60:stä lankaa väreissä, no mustaa oon joskus onnistunut saamaan mutta muut värit sitten onkin todella vaikea löytää... ps. koitahan kuule kysyä Tuomikengästä, josko he myis jos heillä vaan olis, nahkaa on ainakin ollu saatavana, todella upeita värejäkin sieltä oon onnistunut bongaamaan. Että sit vaan excursio kun meet seur. kerran Kankaanpäähän :)

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    1. Noh, en mä sitä lankaa sen pidemmältä metsästänyt kuin oman duunin kolusin läpi. Mutta toi Tuomi-kenkä olisi vierailulistalla, ehdottomasti. Olikin siitä puhe siellä koulussa.

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  3. Kiitos 5ara! Tervetuloa seurailemaan meininkejä :)

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  4. Uiui, mielenkiinnolla odotan, miltä valmiit kengät näyttää :-)

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